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Friday, April 6, 2007
Applying Eye Shadow
Eye shadow is perhaps the most beloved cosmetic of creative makeup artists. Since eyes is the most important focal point of the face, the eye makeup techniques and choice of colors for eyeshadow should suit the shape and color of your eyes. The most important trick to keep in mind is that the light colors highlight the spots while dark colors tame them down. The first step in applying the eyeshadow is to apply a neutral concealer that matches your skin tone on the eyelid and then sweep the lightest shade over the entire area from the lash line to the brow line to create the smudge resistant base. Apply the medium shade on the lower lid and blend it into your base shade. A third color can also be added along the lash line and outer corner of the eyes as an accent to create the depth in eyes. The other tips that you can use are:

* Blondes with blue eyes should opt for browns and taupes while those with green eyes can go for soft mauves and lilacs.

* Blue eyeshadow should only be worn only if you either have fair skin, black or platinum hair and brown or gray eyes or very dark skin.

* Don't match your shadow with your eyes or your clothes so that attention remains with your eyes and not your makeup!

* Emphasizing the inner corner of the eyes to make them look closer to each other. This can be done by applying a neutral base color over the whole eye and then dust a medium color on the inner half of the eyelid and blend it outward. You can then use eyeliner to line the lid from the inner corner of the eye to the middle and blend it outward.

* For day makeup, base color and mascara are the only things you need to wear for eyes.

* High quality powder eyeshadows can be used wet for heavier application by dampening your applicator a little.

* Lighter shadows help the bigger while darker shades make them look smaller. For bigger eyes, sweep a light shade over lid and darker shade on the outer corner of the lid and the crease. Outline the eyes using the eyeliner on the outer side of upper and lower lids while tapering a bit on the outside the eye to elongate it. Dab a white or cream shadow in the middle of the brow bone as a last step.

* Neutral shades like browns and beiges look natural while brighter shades like blue and green look dramatic and artificial.

* On mature skin and puffy eyelids, avoid using iridescent, frosted, light colors and white eyeshadows and opt for soft matte colors instead.

* Only use cream eyeshadows that do not cause creasing upon application and should be coordinated with powder shadows that are to be used on top of them. They should be applied using fingertips.

* Sweep a light or medium-tone shade on the lid and slightly darker shade above the eye crease to downplay the brow bone. Eyeliner should be thick in the middle of the eye and tapering at both ends. Add light highlighter to brow bone.

* To add definition to your eyelids, apply a medium-toned shade across the lid and brow bone and dust the under brow area with a light highlighter shade. Use a very fine pencil liner of natural color to line the upper and lower lash lines.

* To glamorize eyes for night outs, add shimmer to highlight your eyes.

* To lift up tired eyes extend the color from the outer corner of the lid upwards to give them a feline shape. A light highlighter on the brow bone without the eyeliner brightens up the eyes. Concentrate mascara on the inner corner of the eye.

* To make them look wider apart, keep the inside corners of the eyes lighter than the outer edges. Apply concealer one shade lighter than your skin at the inner corner of the lids and the sides of your nose and blend it well. Use a matte medium to dark eyeshadow and stroke it outward and slightly upward from middle of the lid to its outer half. Use the eyeliner a bit in from the inner corner of the eye and make the line tapering up and out a bit past the outer corner of the eyes.

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posted by the author @ 1:26 AM   0 comments
Applying Eyeliner
Eyeliner is used to give shape to the eyes and define them as desired. An important part of eye makeup, it is often used after eyeshadow and before mascara. Eyeliner can be used to add the dramatic touch to your face or soften the look of your eyes and must be used, keeping the color of eyes and the eyeshadow that you use in mind. Brown, navy and charcoal liners look gorgeous on light colored eyes while brown and plum shades are often used to enhance the beauty of dark brown and black eyes. Precise and dramatic strokes can be achieved by using liquid eyeliner while pencil eyeliner is the best to give soft touch to the eyes. To experiment with colors, you can moisten a small flat brush to use dark eyeshadow as eyeliner or a cake liner and the brush must be held as a pen. Pencil eyeliners need to be sharpened before using them.

While applying the eyeliner, tilt your head back slightly and keep your eyes half-open to let you see yourself in the mirror as you are applying the liner. The line must be drawn on the upper lid from the inner side of the eye to the outer side. Let the liner dry before opening your eyes fully. To soften the look of harsh eyeliner, smudge it a little using the brush. Lower lid is lined from outer edge tapering to the inner side of the eye. Liquid liner has to be applied in one smooth stroke while pencil is applied by stroking the area lightly. Too thick eyeliner does not look good so go for thinner lines. Liquid liners need practice and brushed must always be washed with a makeup remover after using them. If your hand is shaky, stand close to the mirror to provide it support from the mirror.

While using a powder shadow as a liner, it is wise to hold a tissue directly beneath your eye to avoid it from getting all over the dace. The best tool to apply eyeliner is the sponge applicator. Liner applied as a series of dashes or dots or short feather-like strokes on the lash line are much easier to control than a solid line. If your lids are oily, you need to prepare it first just like you did for eyeshadow to avoid eyeliner from moving up to the crease area. Kohl pencils are ideally suited for the inner rims of the upper and lower lids and not the eyeliner as it soon smears easily and is also not good for eyes.

Classic traditional eyeliner look can be achieved by determining the thickness and intensity of the eyeliner according to the eyelid area. Larger eyelid area can use thicker and softer eyeliner while smaller eyelid area needs thinner and more intense liner. Since eyeliner is meant to create depth to the eyes and give thickness to the lashes, traditionally you can stick with dark brown, gray or black eyeshadow for the upper lid and softer tan, taupe, chestnut, brown, gray or black shades for the lower lid.

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posted by the author @ 1:22 AM   0 comments
Applying Blush
Blush is often the last cosmetic to be used on face while doing makeup. The method of applying blush differs with the facial shape and the right application of blusher can make your face look longer or wider, as desired. Here are some tips to use while applying blush:

* A little shimmer on the highest point of cheekbone near eyes lends you an instant sexy look.

* Accentuate the cheekbones by using a slightly darker shade there while blending it down the cheek for a more natural look.

* Clean blush brushes are very important to avoid bacteria transfer in skin and thus, one should clean them with non-soapy cleansers and baby wipes.

* Cream blush can be blotted off using a tissue while applying translucent powder can dilute powder blush. However, gel and liquid blush have to be washed from face and the makeup has to be redone.

* Cream blush can be used on lips for sheer and soft color and should be applied using the fingertip.

* Dusky pink blush warms and freshens up the face, especially on the tendons below the ears, but blush on chin may not look good, if your neck is lighter than your face.

* Frosted blush may not be a good idea after all and frost on lips or eyes are more in fashion during night parties. Still, you can get that look by applying a light colored frosted eye shadow or lipstick such as gold, silver, light pink, peach, champagne and beige on the top of the cheekbones. Frosted highlighting powder is also available in the market to be used on any part of your face.

* Gels and liquids are best to get rosy cheeks but since they stain the skin be sure to wash your hands after applying them.

* Gels are dabbed as dot on apple of the cheek and two smaller dots on cheekbone and rubbed in small circles to blend them well all the way from cheeks to hairline.

* Make the face look wider, by looking straight into the mirror and applying blusher on the cheekbone from under the center of the eye to the temple. Suck in cheeks and use the darkest shade in the hollow making a 'C' shape up to the temples but not higher than eyebrows. Use lighter shade on top of cheekbones and stop before the under eye area. You can add a little lush on tip of the nose, forehead and chin.

* Never use blush on underside of cheekbones.

* Often the small blush brush that comes with the cosmetic is of no use. A full round brush gives a professional look and make the overall look softer and more desirable. It is important to have separate brushes for the blush and the powder.

* Powder blush should always be applied in one direction to avoid streaking.

* The best method to apply a blush is to take the blush on the brush and tap off any extra color in the box itself. Alternately, if you are using gel or cream blush, put a dab of it on your fingers.

* The best shades are warm, golden browns than cool, grayish browns, especially when used as cheek contour.

* To find out the actual position of the apple of your cheek, look into the mirror and smile and then sweep the brush upwards in an arc from your cheekbone to your hairline. Color should be light and well blended.

* To make the face look longer, focus your blush on the outer area of the face and near your hairline. Suck in cheeks and use the darkest color in the hollow making a 'C' shape, no higher than eye on side of face. Use lighter shade on top of the cheekbones and below your darkest blush shade to help slim down the face. Apply lighter shade on apple of the cheeks and chin.

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posted by the author @ 1:18 AM   0 comments
Applying Mascara
Mascara gives a finishing touch to your eye makeup and must cover the lashes from roots to the tips. Deposit the color on the mascara wand by twirling it in the pack and then cover the upper lashes from their base to the tips in full strokes to make the lashes look thicker, longer, well defined and separated. Mascara is applied from the underside by holding the wand horizontally parallel to the eyelid and the brush is rolled slowly in the upward stroke. For lower lashes, one has to be more careful so as not to smudge the under eye area and the wand is to be held vertically and mascara is applied from side to side. Less mascara is used on the lower lashes and extra color should be blotted off using the tissue paper. Usually women opt for more than one coat of the mascara, which combs the lashes too so that they do not look stuck together.

If mascara is deposited on the wand more than needed, tissue the extra color off before applying it. Different colors of mascara such as brown, navy and green can make you look funky instantly. It is important that mascara is used on an individual only to avoid transferring eye infections and if it causes even the slightest irritation in the eye, it must be immediately discarded. Wiggle the brush a little at the roots of the lashes as it allows the bristles to move between the eyelashes, combing them and separating them. Let mascara dry between any of the two coats and comb the eyelashes to separate the wet lashes. Do not rub eyes to remove the mascara but use the eye makeup solvent instead. Before applying mascara, use an eyelash comb or damp toothbrush to comb your lashes. Always use a clean and fresh mascara wand on damp lashes.

Black mascara can be used by anybody at anytime though blondes should only use it for bright night makeup. Thin and short brush is best as it is easier to control and gets to the corner of the eye easily. It is also advisable to powder the under-eye area before applying mascara to avoid smudging. Curl the lashes before applying mascara by moving the wand in a zigzag fashion to make the lashes look wider and brighter. Applying mascara only on the upper lashes lend them a dramatic touch, while applying it lightly on the upper and lower lashes, make the eyes seem wider. A gel-based mascara enhances the lashes while thickening mascara looks more dramatic and adds volume to your lashes. Brown, navy and aubergine shades add subtle and sophisticated touch to your eyes while redheads can use burgundy shades. Women with strawberry-blonde hair may try different shades of brown. Be sure not to match your mascara color with your eye color.

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posted by the author @ 1:15 AM   0 comments
Additional Lip Tips
Lips and eyes are the most important focal points of your face so one must pay special attention to these areas while doing makeup. Here are some additional tips for your lips that you can use:

* Lipstick staining your teeth makes you look extremely shabby. To avoid this, pucker your lips in an extreme 'O' and then apply the lipstick.

* Even if your lipstick smudges to the insides of your lips, wrap your finger with a tissue and put it into your mouth, and twist it slowly to eliminate any extra color.

* You can also highlight your lips by using a light film of eye shadow color coordinated with your lip color in the center of the upper and lower lips.

* If one of your lips is larger than the other, balance the look by using the lighter shade of the lipstick on the smaller-sized lip.

* Don't let your lipstick pass on to the utensils while dining by using your tongue and lower teeth and avoiding them to come in contact with your lips.

* To smoothen the lips a little before applying lip color, rub them a little with washcloth gently.

* Apply foundation on and around lips and then define the look of your lips using the lip liner.

* If you lips are naturally full and large, don't use the lip liner though you can soften the edge using a Q-tip and avoid glossy and shiny lip color.

* If you have thin lips, use light shades to make them appear fuller. Define the lip using the neutral lip pencil from slightly beyond your natural lip line and then apply lipstick covering up lip defining line. Another trick is to apply white shadow on center of both lips over lipstick very lightly and spread it gently.

* If your upper lip is too thin or does not have a good shape, outline it with the lip liner similar to your lipstick and in the center portion, draw a second line giving it the precise shape using a brown pencil. Apply color including the brown line. This will make your lips look fuller.

* To hide lip lines, apply lipstick vertically.

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posted by the author @ 1:13 AM   0 comments
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